Outside an old temple on a rainy day in Hue.
Jetting into Hue on an expansive boulevard running parallel to the ramparts enclosing the old Citadel, I become lost, my bustling entryway wilting down to barren road, market lined side street and, eventually, residential alley. Turning around, and cursing the amateurish guidebook map for the hundredth time, a large, bearded, shirtless expat waves me down.
Chris kindly shows me around, giving me treatment only a local can, showing me to the cheapest digs in town and then away from the clamor of the tourist district into a little locals-only hideaway with goat spring rolls, 6 a plate, for fifty cents. He eats six plates.
Bao Quoc Pagoda, built in 1670.
He's been here for over 15 years, long enough to remember maps of the country being illegal, outlawed by the harder-lined Vietnam government of the past. Chris used to ride Minsk motorcycles in his youth and ran outside when he heard the distinct growl of my engine.
Out on the town later and I don't mind being on the tourist strip or the 'hey you!' treatment. It's good just be around other travelers after that last lonely, though idyllic, expanse of countryside. Spend the night drinking with some Aussies. Perfect remedy.
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