Vietnam~ Day 8- 200K All Day

Young locals in a Vietnamese fishing town along the way

       The allure of the North Central region of Vietnam is maybe that it's so far off the beaten track of other travelers that you there's the distinct possibility of never meeting anyone on the travel trail at all; locals and no buzzy signs, no hostels, no 'great deal' tours. No nothin'.There's good reason for this: the beautiful bays and looming karst cliffs out of the catalogues don't exist here, nor do pristine beaches, and the towns, small and anonymous, have little to offer. People living simple, honest lives.
Stopping frequently for coffee, gas, and beer, I'm usually met with quizzical smiles, broken English inquiries and genuine friendliness.  Where I'm from and why I'm here sipping thick-as-oil coffee deep in this backwater town that sees no visitors, this is what everyone wants to know. America for the first and a thumbs up for the latter has to suffice. Any deeper responses bite at the laconic nature of these exchanges and can muddle them, rendering everyone involved even more confused than they should be.
Eight long hours of riding finally has me in Dong Hoi, the last no-name in this region on my way to the more tourist-worn spot in the DMZ or Demilitarized Zone. A moniker leftover from the Vietnam war ( more aptly called ' the American War' by the Vietnamese) which is steeped in sad irony as this was the most militarized  and dangerous place in the entire country at that time. It was so heavily mined during the war that going off of well-trod paths will, to this day, put you in danger of losing a limb. Many Vietnamese suffer this tragedy every year.
Those with a little extra cash to throw around can donate to NGO's such as  Clear Path International and Mines Advisory Group, both of whom do a good job in assisting in the de-mining of this area and others around Vietnam.

 A roadside Pho chef

 Roi